Magical Pemba Island
On our recent trip to East Africa, we visited Pemba Island. Pemba Island is part of Tanzania’s Zanzibar Archipelago and is the most northerly island in the chain. The Pemba Channel, with its coral reefs and abundant marine life, separates the island from mainland Tanzania and offers what is considered some of the best scuba diving and snorkeling off Africa’s east coast.
From Nairobi, we flew to Zanzibar Island (on the way, we had a view of Mt. Kilimanjaro that neither of us had seen since 1995 (Richard) and 1999 (Marjanna) when successful summits to the “Roof of Africa” were made) and then a puddle jump to Pemba Island. The last leg was on a small plane, but we were assured by the staff that flying small planes are much safer than large ones.
Reason given was that you can land a small one anywhere when something goes wrong, whereas with a large plane you need a runway!!! Luckily, we were not concerned about flying on a small plane…
A visit to Pemba Island is a step back in time. It is a rare gem hard to find; an island paradise that is relatively undeveloped. It has been separated from the mainland of Tanzania and Zanzibar for decades, leaving it untouched and pristine. The local population is about 300,000 people and there are rarely more than a couple of dozen foreigners at a given time.
Our destination was Manta Resort, a remote paradise of barefoot luxury (literally, we never wore shoes our entire stay) located on the northern tip of the island on an unbelievably powdery, blindingly white, sand beach. Offshore, the Indian Ocean sparkles with the brilliant turquoise colors of the coral reefs. And, yes, the sand really is that soft and white and the sea really is that colorful!
Manta Resort is Pemba. The staff are local. The cuisine is local. The local culture pervades throughout the property and for those with the time and interest, is warmly shared by all.
It is a resort with a conscience and purpose and a plan. They are truly walking the walk, not just talking the talk of responsible, sustainable tourism. Part of their plan includes a 1km stretch of coastline under protection as an officially designated marine conservancy. The results are evident as the reefs are filled with life. While currently void of pelagics, the continued efforts through conservation and the resulting benefits to the local fisherman, will no doubt see the return of a healthy ecosystem in the near future. Unfortunately, our photos do not do justice to the beauty of the reefs.
While there, we had the opportunity to experience one of the most unique accommodations found in the world, and spent a night in The Underwater Room. Wow! Located about 250m from the shore, anchored in a blue hole surrounded by coral head bommies, it is a three tiered structure with an underwater bedroom, sea level lounge, and a top level sundeck. There are eco-toilet facilities, a fresh water shower, a fully stocked bar – everything you need for an overnight stay. It was a completely private experience, other than the occasional fishing dow sailing past at sunset, and our service fundi bringing our dinner and breakfast. No noise, no light pollution, no Internet. Just us and the fish and the stars.
We really enjoyed our taste of Pemba and Manta Resort, though three nights was not nearly long enough, and we look forward to a return visit one day. If this sounds like your kind of trip, we’d love to help you experience this Life Changing Travel destination ‘contact”